Food

The Dark History of Chocolate: Slavery, Conspiracies, and Conflicts

Chocolate: A Bittersweet History

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14 February 2024

It is hard to imagine the beloved sweet treat, chocolate, to have dark origins that involve slave labor, conspiracy theories, and even murder. Contrary to popular belief, chocolate was not initially associated with Valentine's Day. However, in the 1950s, an American candy company launched a promotional campaign in Japan, encouraging women to purchase chocolate as a romantic gesture for their crushes. The campaign was a huge success, leading to widespread chocolate-gifting during Valentine's Day.

As we celebrate Valentine's Day, and coincidentally, the Chinese New Year, in this article, we delve into the complex and dark history of chocolate, its relationship with slave labor, and the various societal taboos, conspiracies, and conflicts that surround it. Despite these dark associations, chocolate continues to be a favorite treat for many. According to recent statistics, chocolate sales have increased rapidly since February, with gold-wrapped chocolate becoming a popular gift for Valentine's Day.

Cocoa trees, the source of chocolate, are native to the Americas, growing up to 16 to 18 feet (about 5 to 6 meters) tall. A cocoa fruit, or pod, contains 20 to 40 seeds, also known as cocoa beans. The raw cocoa beans are white, and they undergo a fermentation process for three to nine days to develop their dark brown color and chocolate aroma. The beans are then dried, roasted, and ground to create various chocolate products.

The process of harvesting cocoa beans is still labor-intensive and time-consuming, leading to a long association with slave labor. The history of cocoa tree cultivation dates back to the Age of Exploration, where Christopher Columbus is said to have discovered cocoa beans in 1502 and brought them back to Europe, sparking interest in the exotic food among European nobles.

In the 18th century, the world became infatuated with chocolate, with various countries competing for control of its production and distribution, often turning to violence. European traders, eager to capitalize on the significant market and profit opportunities, rushed to the Americas to establish cocoa trading companies in countries like Ecuador, Brazil, and the West Indies. Approximately 1.2 million Africans were captured and transported to America during the 18th and 19th centuries, with Guinea becoming the third-largest cocoa producer globally. Even after slavery was abolished half a century ago, some regions still employ slave labor to harvest cocoa beans.

In 1906, British journalist Henry Nevinson described the living conditions of a cocoa plantation located six miles from the port of Sao Tome. The plantation owner's house had separate buildings for overseers, who were essentially slave drivers, and living quarters for family slaves. Overseers would sometimes force women into sexual slavery. There were also long barracks for plantation workers, resembling military barracks. The plantation also had buildings to store cocoa and equipment and a large warehouse where plantation workers could cook their meals. The plantation's doctor estimated that the annual death rate for slaves was between 12% and 14%, and working three to four years on a plantation was considered a significant achievement in that era. A high child mortality rate also drove up the price of slaves.

In 1909, Nevinson's observational report, along with the negative press generated by the Abolitionist movement, led Portugal to halt the transport of "servants" to its island territories. In the following years, Portugal underwent significant legal reforms to change its stance on slavery and forced labor. However, the problem of slavery and cocoa processing went beyond any legislation, being deeply rooted in the culture of cocoa production. As plantations were often located in remote areas, vulnerable local people were exploited, and the land was controlled by crime, bribery, and corruption.

Today, Ivory Coast, a West African country, produces one-third of the world's cocoa. In a 2002 study, it was found that more than 280,000 children were forced into slave labor on cocoa farms in countries like Ghana, Nigeria, Cameroon, and Ivory Coast.

Chocolate, with its bittersweet and captivating history, has been implicated in various conspiracy theories and criminal activities. In the 17th century, after a dispute with the parishioners, a Mexican archbishop accused them of sending him poison-laced chocolate. In the early 20th century, a man was seen in Asbury Park, New Jersey, exhibiting bizarre behavior, with an open package of chocolate next to him. The onlookers testified that the man appeared to be "excited" and later fled. The police discovered that the chocolate contained enough cyanide to kill two adults.

Another tragic case in 1911 is that of a 5-year-old boy who was found dead, with acid burns around his mouth, in a swampy area in New York. A medicine bottle had been found under the corpse, and a piece of chocolate was nearby. Investigators believed the boy was lured away from home using poisoned chocolate and was force-fed poison. The boy's expensive clothing led some to suspect that he was a victim of a kidnapping plot, in which the initial plan backfired.

An infamous case, in 1871, saw Christina Edmunds, who was known as the "Chocolate Cream Killer," being convicted of three counts of attempted murder and one count of murder of a child. She had laced many chocolate creams with strychnine, a potent poison, and sold them to various locations in Brighton.

From the 19th century, various cases were reported where people used poison-laced chocolate to keep others silent, instill fear, or make them disappear. This phenomenon was not limited to the UK. In the 18th century, a pasha in Turkey had reportedly planned to poison coffee and chocolate consumed by Knights of Malta.

In a more comical incident, in 1926, a Berlin candy company launched a promotional campaign, dropping chocolate "bombs" from airplanes into public spaces. These "bombs" were merely hard chocolate wrapped in tinfoil, but the people were terrified, leading to injuries and property damage. The campaign was eventually halted.

While many people love chocolate, some have criticized its health benefits, labeling it as "junk food" disguised as a healthy snack. For example, despite being marketed as a healthier alternative to chocolate, cocoa butter is not genuinely healthy. Similarly, probiotic drinks are not authentic yogurt, and golden packets of chocolate are not authentic gold. These so-called "healthy" products, despite their marketing, are only a step away from junk food.

Chocolate and its taboos have been a central theme in numerous movies, books, and TV shows, including the popular British drama "Brief Encounter," where a love affair begins in a train station, with the two characters bonding over their love for chocolate. This complex and dark history of chocolate, in all its complexities, has shaped its allure.

In conclusion, chocolate's history is complex, with both dark and light chapters. The slave labor associated with its production, along with the various conspiracy theories and criminal activities connected to it, make for a fascinating and bittersweet tale, perhaps explaining the irresistible charm of chocolate.

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